How to Stop a Squeaky Bed: UK Fixes That Actually Work

You're not alone. If you're reading this at 2am on your phone, trying not to wake your partner as you desperately search for solutions, take a breath. A squeaky bed is one of the most common bedroom problems in the UK, and it's nothing to feel embarrassed about. Whether your bed creaks when you turn over, groans when you climb in, or makes awkward noises at the worst possible moments, we're going to help you fix it.

This guide covers everything from quick fixes you can do tonight to permanent solutions that'll last years. We'll walk you through wooden beds, metal frames, ottoman storage beds, divans, and even help you work out if it's actually your mattress making the noise. By the end, you'll know exactly how to stop a squeaky bed and get back to sleeping peacefully.

Quick Answer: How to Stop a Squeaky Bed Fast (UK)

First, tighten all visible bolts and screws with a screwdriver or wrench. For wooden beds, rub candle wax or beeswax on squeaky joints. For metal beds, spray WD-40 on friction points. Add felt pads, old socks, or towels between slats and the frame to stop rubbing. If the noise persists after these quick fixes, your bed may need new slats, replacement parts, or it could be time for a new frame altogether.

What UK Bed Companies Are Getting Wrong (Competitor Analysis)

We've looked at what the top-ranking UK bed retailers and advice sites are telling people about squeaky beds, and whilst they cover the basics well, there are some significant gaps that leave many people still struggling with noise.

Most guides focus heavily on metal and wooden bed frames but completely ignore ottoman storage beds and divans two of the most popular bed types in UK homes. This is a huge oversight. Ottoman beds have gas lift mechanisms and hinges that can develop unique squeaking problems, whilst divans with drawer runners or platform bases face different issues entirely. If you've got one of these beds and you're following generic advice, you might be trying to fix the wrong thing.

The other major blind spot is UK-specific flooring. We have far more carpeted bedrooms than many other countries, and our older properties often have uneven wooden floorboards that contribute to bed noise. Yet most guides don't mention how your laminate, carpet, or Victorian floorboards interact with your bed frame. They also rarely talk about storage weight distribution in ottoman beds or how UK seasonal temperature changes affect wooden frames.

Many competitors provide temporary fixes things that'll work for a few nights but won't solve the underlying problem. They'll tell you to tighten screws but won't explain the correct tightening order, or they'll suggest lubricant without warning you that some products can stain fabric or damage certain finishes.

What's often missing is honesty about when a fix isn't worth your time. Some beds are simply built too cheaply to stay quiet long-term, and repeatedly fixing the same squeak every fortnight isn't a solution. This guide will tell you when it's genuinely time to stop wasting money on temporary solutions and invest in a properly built bed.

Finally, very few guides address the elephant in the room: many people feel genuinely embarrassed about their squeaky bed, particularly during intimacy or when guests are staying. We're going to be practical and non-judgemental about this throughout, because a bed is meant to support your whole life, not make you self-conscious about moving.

Real People, Real Squeaks: What UK Bed Owners Are Actually Saying

Before we get into solutions, let's talk about what's actually happening in British bedrooms. We've gathered genuine complaints and frustrations from UK forums, Reddit threads, and customer feedback to understand what people are really dealing with.

The single most common complaint is the "only squeaks at night" mystery. People swear their bed is silent during the day but creaks horribly when they're trying to sleep. This isn't your imagination it's usually because you move differently when sleeping (slower, more weight-shifting movements) and there's no ambient noise to mask the sound. Temperature drops at night can also cause wooden frames to contract slightly, creating new friction points.

Embarrassment around intimacy is mentioned constantly but rarely addressed in official guides. One user wrote they'd started avoiding their own bedroom, another said they could only be intimate when the house was empty, and several mentioned the mortifying experience of hearing neighbours through thin walls and realising their own bed was just as loud. This is a real quality-of-life issue that deserves practical solutions.

Brand new beds squeaking is surprisingly common and leaves people feeling cheated. They've just spent hundreds of pounds on what should be a quality item, only to hear creaking within weeks. This is almost always down to poor assembly (either DIY or professional), parts that weren't tightened properly during manufacture, or in cheaper beds components that were never quite right to begin with.

"Only when I turn over" or "only when I move to one side" suggests the problem is localised to specific joints or a particular section of slats. This is actually good news because it means you can target your fix rather than overhauling the entire bed.

Ottoman bed owners face unique frustrations. Their beds squeak when lifting the base to access storage, the gas struts hiss or creak, or the hinges protest every time they need to get something out. Some report that one side of the ottoman squeaks more than the other, usually due to uneven weight distribution in the storage compartment.

Divan owners often can't work out where the noise is coming from. Because the base is upholstered and solid-looking, they assume it should be silent, but drawer runners, platform flex, or the internal wooden frame can all create noise. Several people mentioned their divan being fine on carpet but squeaking horribly on laminate.

Headboard noise is frequently blamed on the frame. People hear squeaking and assume it's the base, but it turns out the headboard is loose or rubbing against the wall. This is a five-minute fix that gets overlooked for months.

Slat-rubbing is particularly common in UK beds because many are sold with the minimum number of slats needed, which means more flex and movement. Add in the fact that some cheaper slats are rough-cut and you get wood-on-wood friction that sounds like a haunted house every time you roll over.

Metal frame owners talk about "clicking" rather than squeaking a sharp, percussive sound from metal-on-metal contact at joints. This is different from wooden bed squeaks and needs different solutions.

Bed legs on hard floors create tapping or shuffling noises. On laminate or wooden floors (increasingly common in modern UK homes), the bed can actually shift position overnight, and every micro-movement creates noise. Carpet generally dampens this but uneven floors under carpet can make things worse.

The "brand new mattress made my old frame squeak" scenario happens when a heavier mattress puts more pressure on an ageing frame, exposing weaknesses that weren't obvious before. The frame hasn't suddenly broken; it's just being tested more thoroughly.

Seasonal squeaking beds that are fine in summer but creak in winter is down to temperature and humidity changes affecting wooden frames. The wood expands and contracts with the weather, and joints that were snug in August are loose by December.

Several people mentioned their bed being quiet when alone but squeaking with a partner, which is simply about weight distribution and movement patterns. Two people create more dynamic load changes than one person sleeping still.

Student accommodation beds are notorious for squeaking because they're usually the cheapest frames available, assembled quickly, and used by multiple people over years. Tightening every screw is almost always needed.

Centre support bars are mentioned repeatedly. When these are missing or come loose, the entire frame flexes more than it should, creating squeaks all along the sides and headboard. This is particularly common in double and king-size beds.

Finally, people report squeaks that suddenly appear for no obvious reason. The bed was fine, then overnight it's noisy. This is usually a bolt that's worked loose gradually until it reached the tipping point, or a slat that's shifted out of position.

Understanding these real-world complaints helps us provide solutions that actually work for the problems UK bed owners face, not just textbook answers.

Why Beds Squeak (Simple Explanation)

At its heart, a squeaky bed is about friction and movement. Every bed has multiple components that need to work together frame, slats, mattress, and sometimes mechanisms like hinges or gas lifts. When these parts move against each other, friction creates sound.

The main culprit is usually loose joints. When your bed was first assembled, all the joints were tight. Bolts held metal to metal firmly, screws pulled wooden sections together snugly, and everything was stable. But beds are dynamic you get in, you get out, you move during sleep, and over time this constant loading and unloading loosens connections. Once there's even a tiny gap, parts can shift and rub against each other, creating that characteristic squeak.

Friction between wooden parts is particularly noisy because wood is slightly rough at a microscopic level. When two wooden surfaces move against each other, they catch and release repeatedly, which is what you hear as creaking. This gets worse as wood ages and the surfaces become rougher, or as temperature and humidity cause the wood to expand and contract.

Metal-on-metal friction creates a different sound often more of a click or ping than a creak. Metal is smooth but when it's under load and two metal surfaces rub together, the sound is surprisingly loud. This is why metal bed frames can seem noisier than wooden ones even when the movement is identical.

Slats rubbing together or against the frame is another major source of noise. Slats are meant to have small gaps between them for ventilation, but if they shift over time and start touching, or if they're not properly secured in their holders, every movement of the mattress causes them to rasp against each other or the frame.

Your mattress itself can contribute to the problem. Innerspring mattresses contain metal coils that can squeak as they compress and release. Over time, these springs wear and the protective fabric around them degrades, making the noise worse. Foam and latex mattresses are completely silent, which is why switching to one can sometimes "solve" a squeak that was actually in the mattress all along.

Floor interaction is often overlooked but crucial. If your bed frame isn't sitting evenly on the floor, it rocks slightly every time you move. On hard floors like laminate or tile, the bed legs can shift and create noise. On carpet, an uneven floor underneath means the bed is constantly trying to find balance, putting stress on joints that shouldn't be under pressure.

Load distribution matters too. When you climb into bed, your weight concentrates in specific areas. If your bed doesn't have proper central support, the frame bows slightly, flexing joints and creating movement. This is why some beds only squeak when you first get in or when you move to certain positions.

Temperature changes affect wooden beds because wood is hygroscopic it absorbs and releases moisture from the air. In damp British winters, wood can swell slightly; in dry centrally-heated rooms, it can shrink. This constant expansion and contraction means joints that fit perfectly in one season can become loose in another.

Age versus poor build quality is an important distinction. A well-built bed might start squeaking after 10+ years because of normal wear. A poorly built bed might squeak within months because the materials were substandard or the construction was shoddy from the start. It's not always about how old your bed is; it's about how well it was made.

Understanding these causes helps you diagnose where your specific squeak is coming from and choose the right fix.

Step 1 Find Where the Noise Is Coming From

You can't fix a squeak unless you know where it's coming from. This detective work might feel tedious, but it'll save you hours of wasted effort.

Diagnostic Checklist

Test the Mattress First Strip the bed completely. Remove the mattress and put it on the floor. Now push down on different areas the centre, where you usually sleep, the edges, all four corners. Roll around on it. Walk across it if you can. If you hear squeaking, the mattress is your problem (or part of it). If it's silent, you know the issue is in the frame.

For innerspring mattresses, listen for metallic pinging or creaking from inside. For older mattresses, you might hear this near the centre where most weight has been applied over the years. If the mattress is squeaking and it's over 7-8 years old, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair.

Check the Frame With No Mattress With the mattress removed, push down on each corner of the bed frame. Lean your weight on the headboard end, then the footboard. Push on the sides. Rock the whole frame gently side to side and front to back. Listen carefully for creaks, clicks, or groans.

Pay attention to whether the noise is:

• A high-pitched squeak (usually wood-on-wood or metal friction)
• A low creak (often joints flexing)
• A clicking sound (typically metal-on-metal)
• A groaning noise (usually the whole frame flexing)

Try to pinpoint which corner or section is making noise. Get someone to move the bed whilst you listen from different angles if you can't identify it yourself.

Examine the Headboard Headboards are sneaky noise-makers. Check all the bolts that attach the headboard to the frame  these often work loose. If your headboard touches the wall, pull the bed a few inches away and test again. Wall contact can amplify squeaks or create new ones as the headboard rubs against the wall surface or catches on things like radiator pipes.

Some headboards attach with brackets that can flex. Push the headboard forward and back whilst someone listens to see if this is the source.

Inspect Each Slat Slats deserve individual attention. Remove them one by one and check:

• Are any cracked or split?
• Do they sit evenly in their holders?
• Are the slat holders intact or broken?
• Is there a centre rail or support, and is it secure?

Put them back and see if they're touching each other. They should have small gaps for ventilation. If they're jammed together, they'll rub and squeak.

Count your slats. For a double bed, you should have at least 13-15 slats for proper support. Fewer than this and you'll get excessive flex, which creates noise and damages your mattress.

Test the Floor Situation Sometimes it's not the bed at all. Push the bed aside and check the floorboards. Walk on them. Are they squeaky? If yes, you might be hearing floor noise, not bed noise.

Check if your floor is level using a spirit level. An uneven floor puts stress on the bed frame, forcing it to flex and squeak. If one leg is slightly off the ground, the whole frame will rack every time you move.

For Ottoman Beds Check the Mechanism Lift the base slowly and listen. The gas struts should operate smoothly and quietly. If they hiss, squeak, or require a lot of force, they may need lubricating or replacing.

Check the hinges where the base attaches to the surround. These can work loose or develop friction over time. Push down on the closed base does it creak? This suggests hinge or frame issues.

For Divans Feel for Flex Divans are tricker because you can't see inside easily. Push down in the centre of the base if you feel significant give or bounce, the internal platform or springs might be failing.

If your divan has drawers, pull them out completely. Sometimes drawer runners develop friction or the drawers themselves can rub against the frame. Remove the drawers and test the bed again.

Mark the Source Once you've identified where the noise comes from, actually mark it with masking tape or a sticky note. This sounds obvious, but when you've got your tools out later, you'll be glad you marked the exact spot instead of trying to remember which of the four corner joints was squeaking.

Fixes by Bed Type (Most Important Section)

Different bed types need different approaches. Here's how to tackle squeaks based on what you're sleeping on.

Wooden Bed Frame Squeaking

Wooden beds are beautiful and durable, but they're prone to squeaks because wood is a natural material that moves with temperature and humidity.

The Tightening Order Matters Don't just randomly tighten bolts. Start with the headboard connections, then work your way to the footboard, then do the side rails, and finally the centre support if you have one. This ensures the frame settles into the correct shape as you work.

Use the Allen key or screwdriver that came with the bed if you still have it manufacturers size these correctly. If you're using a different tool, be careful not to over-tighten. Wooden frames can crack if you force bolts too tight. You want firm, not white-knuckle tight.

Wax is Your Friend Candle wax, beeswax, or paraffin wax works brilliantly on wooden joints. Rub it generously where any two wooden surfaces meet especially where the side rails slot into the headboard and footboard.

Don't use a thin layer; really coat it. The wax fills tiny gaps and provides lubrication so wood can move slightly without friction noise. Reapply every few months as it wears away.

Some people use soap bars instead of wax. This works but wax lasts longer and doesn't leave residue on fabric if your bed has upholstered parts.

Wood Expansion Solutions If your bed squeaks more in winter (damp, cold) or summer (dry, hot), it's because the wood is expanding or contracting. This is normal for wooden furniture, especially solid wood rather than MDF or particle board.

You can't stop wood moving with the seasons, but you can reduce its impact. Felt pads or thin cork sheets at joints will compress and expand with the wood, maintaining contact and reducing noise. Cut them to size and slip them between joint surfaces before reassembling particularly squeaky corners.

Slat Noise Wooden bed slats squeaking against their holders is incredibly common. The solution is simple padding:

• Old socks, t-shirt scraps, or tea towels between slats and frame
• Felt furniture pads stuck to the ends of slats where they sit in holders
• Foam pipe insulation cut into small pieces and fitted in slat holders

The goal is to stop bare wood touching bare wood or metal.

When to Replace Wooden Parts If a wooden slat is cracked, replace it. You can sometimes get away with gluing and clamping a minor crack, but slats are relatively cheap and a broken one can damage your mattress.

If bolt holes in the wood have become enlarged and stripped so bolts won't tighten properly anymore, you need to either:

• Move the bolt position slightly and drill a new hole
• Fill the existing hole with wood filler, let it cure, and re-drill
• Replace that section of the frame

Stripped bolt holes mean the joint will never be stable again without intervention.

Metal Bed Frame Squeaking

Metal frames can be gorgeously stylish but they're notorious for developing squeaks, especially at joints.

Metal-on-Metal is the Enemy Wherever two metal parts meet, you're at risk of noise. The solution is to either eliminate the contact or lubricate it.

WD-40 is the classic choice for metal bed frames. Spray it on every joint, focusing on bolts, where rails meet posts, and any decorative scrollwork that might be vibrating. Wipe off excess so you don't stain bedding when you put the mattress back.

Be aware that WD-40 isn't a permanent lubricant it evaporates over time. For a longer-lasting solution, use silicone spray lubricant or even a light machine oil. These stay in place better but can attract dust, so apply sparingly.

Washers Stop Squeaks Metal bed frame bolts should have washers little metal or plastic rings between the bolt head and the frame. If yours don't, or if they're damaged, this is a major source of squeaking.

Rubber washers are ideal because they compress slightly and dampen vibration. Plastic works too. Metal washers on their own can sometimes make things noisier.

Check every bolt. If washers are missing, you can buy assorted packs cheaply from any hardware shop. Fit one under each bolt head and one under each nut if your frame uses bolt-and-nut assemblies rather than just screws.

Tighten Everything, But Not Too Much Metal frames need all their bolts tight, but there's a catch: over-tightening can deform metal parts, especially if they're thin or decorative. You want firm resistance, not straining-until-your-knuckles-are-white tight.

Go around the entire frame systematically. Many metal frames have 20+ bolts, so don't rush this. Mark each one with chalk or a sticky note as you tighten it so you don't lose track.

Decorative Metalwork Issues Ornate metal beds with scrollwork or decorative bars can develop squeaks in unexpected places. Sometimes it's not the joints at all it's a decorative element vibrating against the main frame.

Push on different decorative parts individually to see if you can isolate the noise. If a decorative piece is welded to the main frame and it's vibrating, a small piece of foam or rubber stuck between the decorative part and the frame can dampen it. Make sure it's not visible if the bed is on display.

When Metal Frames Are Beyond Saving If your metal frame is genuinely rusted at the joints, or if it's bent and deformed, no amount of lubricant or tightening will make it quiet long-term. Rust creates rough surfaces that grind against each other no matter what you do.

Very cheap metal frames (the sort sold for under £100) are often made from thin gauge metal that flexes excessively. These will always squeak because the fundamental structure isn't rigid enough. You can reduce the noise temporarily but it'll come back.

Ottoman Storage Bed Squeaking

Ottoman beds are brilliant for storage but they have unique mechanical parts that can develop specific squeaks.

Gas Lift Mechanisms The gas struts that help you lift the base are pressurised and should operate smoothly and silently. If they're squeaking, hissing, or stiff, they need attention.

First, check the mounting points where the gas struts attach to the bed frame and base. These are pivot points and can work loose. Tighten the bolts but don't over-do it you need to allow the strut to pivot freely.

If the struts themselves are noisy, a silicone-based lubricant on the shaft (the chrome rod that goes in and out) can help. Do NOT use oil-based lubricants as these can damage the seals. Spray a little silicone lube on a cloth and wipe it along the shaft, then work the strut up and down a few times.

If a gas strut has lost pressure (the base won't stay up on its own or drops down heavily), it needs replacing. Gas struts are consumable parts with a limited lifespan. You can order replacements online you'll need to know the extended length, compressed length, and force rating. Most ottoman beds use struts rated between 800N and 1200N depending on the bed size.

Hinge Lubrication The hinges where the base attaches to the frame can dry out and squeak. These are often metal-on-metal piano-style hinges running the full width of the bed.

Clean any dust or debris from the hinge first. Then apply a light machine oil or silicone spray along the hinge length. Open and close the base several times to work the lubricant in. Wipe off any excess to prevent it getting on bedding.

Some ottomans use individual heavy-duty hinges rather than piano hinges. Check each one is securely bolted and not bent or damaged. A bent hinge will bind and squeak no matter how much you lubricate it.

Storage Weight Distribution If your ottoman squeaks more on one side or makes noise when you open it but not when you close it, uneven weight in the storage can be the culprit.

Ottoman storage is large and it's tempting to fill it completely, but overloading especially on one side puts stress on the frame and mechanisms. The base can twist slightly, causing joints to flex and squeak.

Redistribute what you're storing. Aim for even weight across the whole storage area, and don't exceed the manufacturer's weight limit (usually around 25-30kg for most ottoman beds).

Frame Flex The surrounding frame of an ottoman bed (the part that doesn't lift) can squeak if it's not rigid enough or if it's assembled incorrectly.

Check all the corner joints of the frame. These should be tight and square. If the frame is racking (twisted out of square), everything will squeak because no joint is sitting properly.

Some ottoman frames use dowels and glue at corners in addition to bolts. If these have failed, you'll hear creaking from the corners. This often needs re-gluing or reinforcement with metal corner brackets on the inside (hidden by the upholstery).

Divan Bed Squeaking

Divans are meant to be the quiet option solid, stable, and silent. When they squeak, it's frustrating because you can't easily see what's wrong.

Platform vs Sprung Base Work out what type of divan base you have. A platform base is firm board inside the upholstered shell these rarely squeak. A sprung edge or sprung top base has springs inside these can develop noise over time as springs wear.

Push down on your divan. If it's very firm with minimal give, it's probably platform. If there's noticeable bounce, it's sprung. Sprung bases that squeak usually need professional repair or replacement because the springs are inaccessible inside the upholstered casing.

Drawer Runners Divan beds with storage drawers can squeak from the drawer mechanism, not the bed itself. Pull all drawers out fully and test the bed again. If the squeak disappears, it's the drawers.

Drawer runners can be metal or plastic. Metal runners benefit from a spray of WD-40 or silicone lubricant. Plastic runners can be treated with candle wax or even a spray of furniture polish to reduce friction.

Sometimes drawer fronts rub against the divan surround. Check the clearances and adjust drawer alignment if possible. Some divan drawers have adjustable fronts with screws that let you move them slightly.

Internal Frame Problems Inside every divan is a wooden frame that supports the platform or springs. If this frame has come loose or if joints have failed, the whole divan will flex and squeak.

You can't easily access this without damaging the upholstery, which is why squeaking divans are particularly annoying to fix. If you're confident, you can carefully unpick some of the base upholstery staples to access the underside and check the frame, but this is a job for when you're prepared to potentially need professional reupholstery afterwards.

For most people, if a divan's internal frame is the problem and you can't solve it by tightening or adjusting externally accessible parts, it's a sign the divan has reached the end of its usable life.

Legs and Castors Divan legs screw into threaded inserts in the base. These can work loose, causing the entire divan to rock and squeak. Unscrew each leg, check the thread isn't damaged, add a bit of thread-lock compound if you have it (or even a wrap of PTFE tape on the thread), and screw them back in firmly.

Castors (wheeled legs) can squeak from the wheel bearings or from loose mounting. Some divan castors are press-fit into sockets rather than screw-in. If these have worked loose, you can try wrapping the shaft with thin cloth or tape to make it a tighter fit, but really they should be replaced.

Squeaky Bed Slats How to Fix Properly

Slats deserve their own section because they're such a common source of squeaks and the fixes are quite specific.

The Slat-Rubbing Problem Slats should sit in holders with small gaps between each slat. Over time, slats can shift, sag, or bow, causing them to touch each other. When they touch, they rub, and when they rub under the movement of a mattress, they squeak.

Remove all slats and check each one. Are any warped or bowed? Wooden slats can develop a curve over time, especially if they're softwood or if they've been overloaded. Warped slats need replacing you can't straighten them permanently.

Check the slat holders (the ribbons, plastic clips, or wooden ledges that the slats sit in). Are they intact? Damaged holders let slats move around, creating noise.

Spacing Matters When you put slats back, ensure even spacing. For a double or king bed, slats should be roughly 5-7cm apart. Closer than this and they might touch; wider than this and your mattress won't be properly supported.

If your slat holders are just plastic clips or ledges with no spacing guidance, make a simple measuring stick from scrap wood to keep spacing consistent as you replace each slat.

Buffer Material The classic fix for squeaky slats is to add buffer material:

• Old socks fitted onto each end of each slat where they sit in holders
• Felt pads stuck to slat ends
• Foam pipe insulation cut into small pieces and fitted in holders
• Rubber strips cut from old mouse mats

The goal is to create a layer between the slat and its holder so wood isn't directly touching wood or metal.

Centre Support Rail Double, king, and super king beds should have a centre support rail or leg running down the middle from headboard to footboard. This stops slats sagging in the middle.

If yours is missing, this is why your slats are squeaking. They're flexing too much in the centre, which makes them rub against their holders and against the mattress.

You can buy universal centre support rails, or make one from a 4x2 length of timber. It should run the full length of the bed and have a leg in the middle that reaches the floor. The slats then rest on this centre rail as well as on the side rails, halving the unsupported span and reducing flex dramatically.

Replace Worn Slats Slats are consumable. If yours are more than 5-7 years old and showing signs of wear (cracks, splinters, permanent bowing), replacement is more effective than patching.

You can buy replacement slats from bed retailers or hardware stores. Measure the width needed (side rail to side rail) and buy slightly longer slats, then cut them to exact length. Most beds need 13-15 slats for a double, 15-17 for a king.

Sprung slats (curved laminated wooden slats) are quieter than flat slats because they flex rather than rubbing, but they're more expensive. If you're replacing slats anyway and noise is a major concern, sprung slats are worth considering.

The Problem-Cause-Fix Table

Problem	Likely Cause	Quick Fix	Long-Term Fix
Squeaking when you first get into bed	Slats flexing and rubbing	Add centre support rail	Replace with sprung slats
Noise from the edges of the bed	Slats rubbing in holders	Wrap slat ends with socks or felt	New slat holders or replace frame
Clicking or snapping sounds	Broken or cracked slats	Remove and replace damaged slat	Replace all slats if most are worn
Noise only in the centre	Missing or loose centre support	Add or tighten centre support	Permanent centre rail installation
Slats sliding out of position	Damaged holders or wrong size slats	Measure and check fit, add padding	Replace holders or correct-size slats
Constant creaking regardless of movement	Slats too close together and rubbing	Re-space slats evenly with gaps	Replace with correct number of slats

Mattress Noise vs Bed Frame Noise

Sometimes what sounds like a squeaky bed is actually your mattress. Here's how to tell the difference and what to do about it.

Testing for Mattress Noise We covered this briefly earlier, but it's worth repeating: put your mattress on the floor and test it thoroughly. Push down on it, move around on it, roll on it. If you hear squeaking, clicking, or metallic sounds, your mattress is the culprit or at least part of the problem.

Innerspring mattresses (pocket sprung or open coil) are the type most likely to develop noise. The metal springs inside can squeak as their protective fabric covering wears out or as the springs themselves age and develop friction points.

Foam and Latex vs Springs Memory foam, standard foam, and latex mattresses are completely silent because they have no moving parts. If you've got one of these and you're hearing noise, it's definitely the bed frame, not the mattress.

If you have a hybrid mattress (foam layers on top, springs underneath), it could be squeaking from the spring section.

When the Mattress is the Problem If your mattress is squeaking and it's over 7-8 years old, replacement is the realistic option. You cannot access the internal springs to fix them they're sewn inside the mattress layers.

If the mattress is relatively new (under 2-3 years old) and squeaking, this might be a warranty issue. Contact the retailer or manufacturer. A new mattress shouldn't squeak.

As a temporary measure, rotating a squeaky mattress can sometimes help. The area where you sleep gets the most compression and wear, so rotating 180 degrees means putting that area where your feet go instead. This won't fix the squeak but might make it less noticeable if you're not directly lying on the squeaky spot.

The Mattress-Frame Interaction Sometimes the mattress and frame together create noise that neither makes alone. This happens when:

• The mattress is too small for the frame, allowing it to shift and rub
• The mattress is too heavy for the slat spacing, causing excessive flex
• The mattress bottom is rough or textured, creating friction against slats

A thin mattress protector or old blanket between the mattress and slats can reduce this friction, acting as a buffer layer.

Floor & Room Factors (Often Ignored)

Your bedroom floor and the room itself can contribute to bed noise in ways most people never consider.

Carpet vs Laminate vs Wooden Floorboards Carpet is the kindest flooring for quiet beds. It absorbs vibration and prevents bed legs from shifting. However, if the floor underneath the carpet is uneven, the carpet can hide this whilst the bed still rocks and squeaks.

Laminate and engineered wood floors are increasingly popular in UK homes but they're unforgiving for beds. The hard, smooth surface means bed legs can shift slightly, and any unevenness is immediately apparent. The bed rocks, joints flex, and squeaks develop.

Original wooden floorboards in older UK properties are often beautiful but rarely level. Decades or centuries of settling mean gaps, slopes, and uneven boards. A bed on this type of floor will almost certainly need levelling.

Levelling Solutions Use a spirit level on your bed frame (with the mattress off). Check front-to-back and side-to-side. If you see bubbles off-centre, the bed isn't level.

To fix this:

• Furniture pads or shims under short legs
• Folded cardboard (temporary but works)
• Adjustable levelling feet (ideal you can buy these to replace standard feet)
• Pieces of hardboard or thin plywood cut to size

The goal is to get all four corners bearing weight evenly. Even a 5mm difference in height at one corner is enough to cause the frame to rack and squeak.

Uneven Floors If your floor itself is significantly uneven (common in period properties or rooms above garages/extensions), you might need more than shims.

Consider:

• Placing a large, thick rug under the bed to even out minor irregularities
• Professional floor levelling if the problem is severe
• Adjustable bed frames designed for uneven floors

Be aware that Victorian and Edwardian floors often slope toward windows for drainage, and floors in conversions might be out of true because the building has settled. You're working with the reality of the structure.

Wall Contact Headboards and bed frames touching walls create squeaks as the bed moves and drags against the wall surface. Pull the bed 5-10cm away from the wall and test again.

If you need the bed against the wall for space reasons, put felt pads or rubber bumpers on the back of the headboard where it touches the wall. This lets it rest against the wall without creating friction noise.

Some people have radiator pipes behind their beds. If your headboard is knocking against these, you'll hear loud banging. Padding the headboard and ensuring clearance is essential.

Rug Solutions A thick rug under your bed, even over carpet, can reduce noise by:

• Dampening vibration transfer from bed to floor
• Preventing bed legs from shifting position
• Absorbing sound that would otherwise travel through floorboards

Choose a rug that's larger than your bed footprint if possible, so all four legs sit on it. A rug pad underneath stops the rug itself from shifting.

Acoustic Issues In flats and terraced houses, sound travels through floors more than you'd expect. Even a perfectly quiet bed can seem noisy if you're hyper-aware of neighbours below hearing you move.

There's no magic fix for this, but thick underlay beneath carpet, rugs, and ensuring your bed has rubber or felt feet rather than hard plastic or metal ones all help reduce sound transmission.

Temporary Fixes vs Permanent Fixes

Not all solutions last the same length of time. Here's what you need to know about short-term tricks versus long-term solutions.

What Works Tonight When you need immediate quiet perhaps guests are staying or you just can't face another sleepless night these quick fixes can get you through:

• Tightening all visible bolts and screws (10-20 minutes, lasts days to weeks)
• WD-40 on metal joints (5 minutes, lasts days to weeks)
• Candle wax on wooden joints (10 minutes, lasts weeks to months)
• Towels or socks wrapped around squeaky slats (5 minutes, lasts until they shift)
• Pulling bed away from wall (2 minutes, permanent unless you move it back)

These aren't necessarily bad fixes some of them become permanent if you maintain them but they're "get you through the immediate crisis" solutions.

What Lasts Weeks to Months These fixes require more effort but provide medium-term relief:

• Proper slat padding with felt or foam (1 hour, lasts months to a year)
• Replacing a few worn slats (30-60 minutes, lasts years)
• Adding centre support to a bed that lacks it (1-2 hours, permanent)
• Levelling bed on uneven floor with shims (30 minutes, lasts until you move the bed)
• Lubricating ottoman gas struts and hinges properly (20 minutes, lasts months)

You'll likely need to repeat these fixes occasionally, but they address underlying problems rather than just masking symptoms.

What Lasts Years True long-term solutions that solve the problem properly:

• Replacing all worn slats with high-quality sprung slats (2-3 hours, lasts 5-10+ years)
• Disassembling and reassembling the entire frame with thread-lock on bolts (3-4 hours, lasts until you move house)
• Replacing failed ottoman gas struts (1 hour, lasts 5-7 years)
• Installing permanent centre support rail (2-3 hours, lasts the life of the bed)
• Replacing cheap or damaged mattress (immediate, lasts 8-10 years)
• Buying a properly built new bed frame (lasts 10-20+ years)

These require investment of time, money, or both, but they actually solve the problem rather than just quietening it temporarily.

What Wastes Your Time Some "fixes" you'll see online simply don't work well or at all:

• Blankets between mattress and slats: These bunch up, shift position, and only work for a few nights before needing constant adjustment. Proper padding that's attached or fitted is far better.

• Oil on wooden joints: Oil soaks into wood and can stain. It also attracts dust and becomes sticky. Wax is always better for wood.

• Over-tightening everything: This can crack wood, strip threads, and bend metal. It doesn't make things quieter; it often makes them worse.

• Ignoring the root cause: If your bed needs new slats, no amount of lubricant will help. If the frame is fundamentally poorly built, tightening it every week is wasted effort.

• Foam earplugs: This addresses your hearing, not the actual problem. Plus, if you're worried about a partner or neighbours hearing the noise, earplugs don't help them.

The Maintenance Schedule Approach The most effective long-term strategy is regular maintenance rather than crisis fixes:

• Monthly: Visual check for obvious issues, tighten any bolts you can see if they've loosened
• Every 3 months: Properly check all bolts and screws with tools, reapply wax to wooden joints if needed
• Every 6 months: Remove mattress and inspect slats, check for any damage, lubricate metal joints
• Annually: Full inspection including checking for frame damage, replacing any worn parts, considering if anything needs upgrading

This proactive approach catches problems before they become constant squeaks.

When It's Time to Replace the Bed

Sometimes fixing a squeaky bed is like bailing out a sinking boat you're wasting energy on something that's fundamentally failing. Here's how to know when to stop fixing and start shopping.

Repeated Loosening If you're tightening the same bolts every week or two, the bolt holes have likely stripped. Wood can wear away around bolts, metal threads can become damaged, and once this happens, nothing stays tight for long.

You can try:

• Thread-lock compound (like Loctite)
• Larger diameter bolts if the holes are enlarged
• Moving bolt positions entirely

But if the frame has degraded to the point where multiple joints won't stay tight, you're fighting a losing battle. The frame has reached the end of its structural life.

Structural Flex You Can See Put the mattress on the floor and look at your bed frame. Push on the corners. Does the whole frame visibly flex and twist? Can you see joints moving when they shouldn't?

A well-built bed frame is rigid. You should be able to push quite hard on a corner without the whole frame racking. If the frame moves like a loose gate, the structural integrity is gone.

This happens when:

• Joints have failed (glue has given way, dowels have broken)
• The frame material has warped or bent permanently
• The frame was built poorly in the first place

The Cheap Fix Frequency Test Count how often you're doing something to quiet the bed:

• Every night (putting towels in place, pulling bed from wall): Time to replace
• Every week (tightening bolts): Time to replace
• Every month (reapplying wax, adjusting slats): The bed might have one more year, but start planning
• Every 3-6 months (routine maintenance): This is normal, keep the bed

If maintaining quiet sleep requires weekly effort, the bed has become a burden rather than a piece of furniture you can rely on.

Safety Considerations A failing bed frame isn't just annoying; it can be dangerous:

• Broken slats can collapse suddenly, dropping the mattress and anyone on it
• Sharp metal or wooden splinters from damaged parts can cause injury
• Structural failure while you're asleep could cause falls

If you're seeing cracks in wooden frames, bent metal rails, or slats that are clearly failing, safety should override cost concerns about replacement.

The 10-Year Rule Most bed frames have a reasonable lifespan of around 10 years with normal use. This varies:

• Budget frames (under £200): 3-5 years typical lifespan
• Mid-range frames (£200-600): 7-10 years typical lifespan
• Premium frames (£600+): 10-20+ years typical lifespan

If your bed is at or beyond its expected lifespan based on build quality, and it's squeaking constantly, replacement is more cost-effective than continued repairs.

Cost Analysis Work out what you've spent on fixes in the past year:

• Replacement slats: £30-60
• New bolts and fixings: £10-20
• Lubricants and materials: £10-20
• Your time at even £10/hour: £20-50
• Sleep quality and stress: Priceless but real

If you've spent over £100 in money and time fixing an old bed, putting that toward a new frame makes more financial sense.

When It's Not the Bed's Fault Before you bin your bed, make absolutely certain the frame is the problem. We've covered this throughout, but it bears repeating:

• Test mattress separately on the floor
• Check floor level and floorboard squeaks
• Verify the noise isn't from wall contact
• Ensure you've tried proper fixes, not just quick hacks

Don't replace a £500 bed frame because of a £10 bolt that needs tightening or a £30 slat that needs replacing.

How to Prevent Bed Squeaks Long-Term

Prevention is easier than cure, especially with beds. Here's how to keep a bed quiet from day one.

Correct Assembly is Everything The majority of squeaky beds start life as poorly assembled beds. Whether you're doing it yourself or having it delivered assembled, this is the crucial moment.

DIY Assembly Tips:

• Clear a large space trying to build in a cramped room leads to mistakes
• Read the instructions fully before starting
• Identify all parts and hardware before you begin
• Don't fully tighten bolts until the whole frame is together, then go back and tighten everything in the correct order
• Use the correct tools (the included Allen keys are sized correctly; wrong sizes strip bolt heads)
• Two people make assembly easier and more accurate
• Check the frame is square before final tightening (measure diagonal corners they should be equal)

Professional Assembly: If you're paying for assembly, watch the process if possible. Rushed assembly is poor assembly. The person should be:

• Following instructions, not assuming they know the design
• Checking parts fit correctly before forcing anything
• Tightening bolts systematically, not randomly
• Testing the frame for squareness and stability before declaring it done

If assembly is included in delivery, check the bed thoroughly before the delivery team leaves. Rock it, push on corners, look for gaps in joints. If it's squeaking before you've even put a mattress on it, insist they fix it.

Weight Distribution Beds are designed to support evenly distributed weight. Problems arise when:

• You sit on the same edge every time getting in and out (this stresses one side)
• You sleep on only one side of a double bed (uneven slat wear)
• You pile heavy items on the bed during the day (some people use beds as dumping grounds for laundry, bags, etc.)

Distribute your sleep time across the whole mattress where possible, and avoid using your bed as furniture for heavy items it wasn't designed to hold.

For ottoman beds specifically, don't overload the storage. The base isn't designed to lift 40kg of stuff every time you need to access it. Keep stored items at a reasonable weight and distribute evenly.

The Maintenance Schedule We mentioned this earlier, but it's worth a dedicated section. Regular maintenance keeps beds quiet:

Monthly Quick Check (5 minutes):

• Visual inspection for obvious loose bolts
• Quick test for squeaks
• Tighten anything noticeably loose

Quarterly Proper Check (30 minutes):

• Remove mattress
• Check all bolts and screws with tools, tighten properly
• Inspect slats for damage
• Reapply wax to wooden joints
• Lubricate metal joints if needed
• Check floor level hasn't changed (can happen in period properties)

Annual Deep Inspection (1-2 hours):

• Full disassembly if practical (or at least headboard removal)
• Inspect for cracks, damage, wear
• Replace any worn parts
• Clean accumulated dust (especially important for ottomans and divans with storage)
• Check and tighten with thread-lock compound on bolts that repeatedly loosen

This sounds like work, but 30 minutes every three months is trivial compared to the sleep disruption of a constantly squeaky bed.

Quality Indicators When Buying If you're in the market for a new bed and want to avoid squeaks, look for:

Frame Strength:

• Thicker materials (wooden side rails should be at least 40mm thick; metal rails should feel substantial)
• Reinforced corners with brackets or additional fixings
• Centre support rail included for double beds and above
• Leg count: more legs = better weight distribution = less flex

Slat Quality:

• Minimum 13 slats for a double, 15 for king size
• Sprung slats (curved laminated wood) rather than flat planks
• Centre support rail for the slats
• Secure slat holders (metal or heavy-duty plastic, not just webbing)

Joinery Design:

• Bolted joints with large contact areas
• Dowels in addition to bolts for wooden beds
• Welded joints on metal beds (better than bolted for long-term silence)
• Hidden fixings (these are often higher quality than visible bolt-heads)

Centre Support: Double beds and larger should have a centre support rail or leg that runs from headboard to footboard. This is non-negotiable for a quiet, durable bed. If a frame doesn't include this, it will squeak eventually.

Warranty Signals:

• Longer warranties (5-10 years) suggest confidence in build quality
• Warranties that specifically mention frame integrity, not just fabric/finish
• Companies that offer easy returns during a trial period

Be wary of:

• Very cheap beds (under £150 for a double) the materials and construction cannot be good at this price
• Beds with dozens of small bolts rather than fewer larger ones
• Frames that feel light when you lift them (weight often correlates with material quality)
• Sellers who can't tell you the thickness of frame components or number of slats

Buying a Quiet Bed (What to Look For)

If you're shopping for a new bed and silence is a priority, here's your checklist.

Frame Material Considerations

Solid Wood (Hardwood):

• Naturally quieter than metal
• Oak, beech, and ash are dense and stable
• Minimal temperature-related expansion
• Joints can be very secure if well-made
• Downside: Expensive; heavy; can still squeak if poorly assembled

Solid Wood (Softwood):

• Pine is most common
• Cheaper than hardwood
• More prone to expansion/contraction with temperature
• Joints can loosen over time if not maintained
• Needs regular bolt-tightening
• Can be very quiet if well-maintained

MDF/Particle Board:

• Very cheap
• Usually upholstered so you don't see the material
• Bolt holes can strip easily
• Not suitable for long-term use
• Often squeaky within a year or two
• Avoid if quiet sleep is important

Metal (Wrought Iron, Steel):

• Can be beautiful and very strong
• Prone to metal-on-metal squeaks at joints
• Requires lubrication maintenance
• Decorative metal beds often have more potential squeak points
• Robust tubular steel frames can be very quiet if well-made

Upholstered Frames:

• The upholstery doesn't affect noise much (it's the frame underneath that matters)
• Often hide cheaper frame materials
• Can be harder to maintain because you can't see the fixings easily
• Test thoroughly before buying

The In-Store Test When you're in a shop looking at beds:

1. Push test: Push firmly on all four corners. The frame should be solid with minimal flex.

2. Sit test: Sit heavily on the edge in multiple spots. Listen for any creaks.

3. Rock test: Gently rock the whole frame side-to-side and front-to-back. Well-built frames won't creak.

4. Joint inspection: Look closely at how corners are joined. More contact area = stronger = quieter.

5. Lift test: If you can lift a corner slightly, feel the weight. Heavier usually means better materials.

6. Slat check: Count the slats. Inspect their thickness and how they're held. Are they sprung? Is there centre support?

7. Ask about assembly: Will they assemble it? Is there an option for professional assembly?

Online Buying Precautions Buying beds online is common but riskier for avoiding squeaks because you can't physically test:

• Read reviews obsessively, specifically searching for "squeak", "noise", "creak"
• Check if the company has a no-quibble returns policy
• Look for video reviews if available
• Ask customer service specific questions: material thickness, slat count, centre support inclusion, bolt types
• Verify that professional assembly is available in your area
• Understand the returns process before you buy

The Trial Period Matters Many bed retailers now offer 30-100 night trial periods. This is crucial for testing squeaks because:

• Beds often don't squeak immediately after assembly
• A week or two of use shows whether bolts were tight enough
• You need time to test different movement patterns and weight distributions

A trial period removes the risk of being stuck with a squeaky bed you just bought.

Price-Quality Relationship You don't have to spend thousands, but you do need realistic expectations:

• Under £150: Expect squeaks within months; suitable for very temporary use only
• £150-300: Budget range; may last a few years with maintenance; squeaks likely eventually
• £300-600: Good mid-range; should last 5-8 years; can be quiet with proper care
• £600-1,000: Premium range; should last 10+ years; designed to stay quiet
• £1,000+: High-end; should last decades; silence is usually a design priority

Macba Beds Built to Stay Quiet

We understand how exhausting it is to deal with a squeaky bed. That's why every frame we make at Macba Beds is designed with silence and long-term durability in mind.

Our frames use substantial materials thick wooden rails and robust metal components that don't flex under normal use. We include centre support rails as standard on all double beds and larger, because we know this is essential for preventing slat noise and frame flex. Our slat systems use proper holders and adequate quantities of slats, not the bare minimum.

The hardware we supply is sized correctly and designed to stay tight. We include proper washers, and our assembly instructions explain the correct tightening sequence so joints stay secure. We're not interested in making beds that last just long enough to get past the returns period. We want you to sleep soundly for years.

Our ottoman storage beds use quality gas lift mechanisms that operate smoothly and quietly, and we design the frames to distribute weight evenly so nothing's under excessive stress. Divan bases from Macba Beds feature solid construction with proper internal bracing.

We deliver across England, Scotland, and Wales, and we offer assembly services so your bed is built correctly from day one. We also back everything with a 3-year guarantee that covers structural integrity, not just superficial damage.

We know buying a bed is a significant investment, which is why we offer a 30-day free trial. Sleep on it, move around, live with it. If it squeaks or you're not completely happy, we'll collect it and refund you. We also offer flexible payment options with 0% interest-free instalments, so you can invest in quality sleep without the upfront cost shock.

Good sleep matters, and it starts with a bed you can trust to stay silent. Whether you're looking for a simple wooden frame, a storage-packed ottoman, or a classic divan base, we've built it with your sleep quality in mind.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I stop my bed from squeaking? First, identify whether the noise comes from the mattress, frame, slats, or floor. Remove the mattress and test it separately on the floor. For frame squeaks, tighten all bolts and screws. Apply candle wax to wooden joints or WD-40 to metal joints. Add padding between slats and frame. If the floor is uneven, use shims to level the bed. Most squeaks come from loose bolts or rubbing slats.

Why does my bed squeak only at night? Night-time squeaks seem louder because ambient noise is reduced and you're more aware of sounds when trying to sleep. Additionally, temperature drops at night cause wooden frames to contract slightly, creating friction at joints. You also move differently when sleeping slower shifts in position that put different stresses on joints than quick daytime movements.

Is a squeaky bed dangerous? Usually not immediately dangerous, but it can signal problems. Loose joints or worn slats can eventually fail, potentially causing the bed to collapse. If you see visible cracks in wood, bent metal, or severely damaged slats, these are safety concerns. A consistently squeaky bed also disrupts sleep quality, which has health implications over time.

Can a new bed squeak? Yes, unfortunately. This usually indicates poor assembly, insufficiently tightened bolts during manufacturing, or substandard materials. A brand new bed should not squeak if yours does within the first few weeks, contact the retailer as this may be covered under warranty. Sometimes new beds squeak simply because bolts haven't settled and need re-tightening after a week of use.

Do wooden or metal beds squeak more? Both can squeak, but they do it differently. Wooden beds creak from joints loosening and wood-on-wood friction, particularly with temperature and humidity changes. Metal beds click or ping from metal-on-metal contact at joints and bolts. Well-made frames of either material can be completely silent with proper maintenance. Cheap versions of both will squeak.

How do I stop an ottoman bed squeaking? Check the gas lift struts lubricate the chrome shafts with silicone spray and ensure mounting bolts are tight. Lubricate the hinges where the base attaches to the frame with light machine oil. Tighten all frame bolts. Check that weight in the storage area is distributed evenly, as imbalance can cause twisting and squeaks. If gas struts are old or have lost pressure, they may need replacing.

Does a mattress cause squeaking? Yes, older innerspring mattresses can squeak from worn metal coils inside. Test by putting the mattress on the floor and moving on it. If you hear metallic sounds, the mattress is squeaking. Mattresses over 7-8 years old with squeaky springs usually need replacing. Memory foam and latex mattresses never squeak because they contain no metal components.

Why does my bed squeak when I move but not when I'm still? Movement puts dynamic load on joints and slats, creating friction that produces noise. When you're still, weight is distributed evenly and nothing is moving against anything else. The squeak comes from parts rubbing together as the frame flexes slightly under shifting weight. This is normal physics, but it shouldn't be loud enough to disturb you.

Can I fix a squeaky bed permanently? Many squeaks can be permanently fixed by properly assembling the bed with thread-lock compound on bolts, replacing worn slats, adding permanent centre support, and using appropriate padding between moving parts. However, very cheap or poorly designed beds may develop new squeaks constantly because the fundamental structure is inadequate. Quality frames with proper maintenance can stay silent for decades.

Do bed slats need to be replaced? If slats are cracked, warped, or more than 7-10 years old, replacement is wise. Damaged slats can break completely, potentially causing injury and damaging your mattress. Worn slats also cause squeaking and don't support your mattress properly. Replacement slats are relatively inexpensive (£30-60 for a full set) and easy to install.

How often should I tighten bed frame bolts? New beds should be checked and re-tightened after about a week of use as bolts settle. After that, check quarterly every three months as part of routine bed maintenance. If you notice new squeaks developing, check immediately. Wooden frames in centrally heated homes may need more frequent checking during winter when the wood contracts.

Will WD-40 fix a squeaky bed? WD-40 can quiet metal bed frames temporarily by lubricating metal-on-metal contact points. However, WD-40 is not a permanent lubricant it evaporates over time. For longer-lasting results on metal, use silicone spray. Never use WD-40 on wooden frames as it can stain and doesn't address wood-on-wood friction use wax instead.

Do you offer a 30-day free trial? Yes, all Macba Beds come with a 30-day free trial period. You can sleep on your new bed for a full month, and if you're not completely satisfied for any reason including if it develops squeaks we'll collect it and provide a full refund. This gives you genuine time to ensure the bed works perfectly in your home.

Can I pay in instalments with 0% interest-free? Yes, we offer flexible payment plans with 0% interest on all our beds. You can spread the cost over several months without any additional charges, making quality, quiet sleep more affordable. Payment options are available at checkout, and approval is usually instant. This means you can invest in a properly built bed without the full upfront cost.

What does the 3-year guarantee cover? Our 3-year guarantee covers structural defects, faulty mechanisms (like ottoman gas struts), and manufacturing issues. If your bed develops squeaks due to poor construction or material failure within three years, we'll repair or replace it. The guarantee doesn't cover general wear and tear, damage from misuse, or squeaks caused by lack of basic maintenance like bolt-tightening. See full terms at time of purchase.

How do I stop bed slats from squeaking UK? Add padding between slats and their holders using felt pads, old socks, or foam pipe insulation cut to size. Ensure slats aren't touching each other they should have small gaps. Check you have enough slats (minimum 13 for a double bed). Install a centre support rail to reduce slat flex. Replace any warped or damaged slats. This combination stops the wood-on-wood and wood-on-metal friction that causes squeaks.

Is it worth fixing an old squeaky bed? If the bed is good quality, less than 10 years old, and the fix is simple (tightening bolts, replacing a few slats, adding wax), then yes. If you're repeatedly fixing the same problem weekly, the frame is very cheap quality, or it's beyond its expected lifespan, your time and money are better spent on a replacement bed. Calculate what you've spent on fixes if it's approaching the cost of a new budget frame, stop fixing.

Why does my divan bed creak? Divan creaks usually come from drawer runners needing lubrication, loose legs, or the internal wooden frame flexing. Check all legs are screwed in tightly, lubricate drawer runners with WD-40 or wax, and ensure the divan is sitting level on the floor. If the noise persists, the internal frame may have failed, which is difficult to fix without damaging the upholstery. This often signals the divan has reached the end of its usable life.